As followers of my @fatvicks Instagram page will know, I was lucky enough to visit Paris a whopping five times over the past eight months. I practically had a favourite seat on the Eurostar. Therefore, speaking as a local (joking, please hold the abuse) I feel I have the authority to recommend some of the spots that I loved the most. If the below map of Paris on my phone is anything to go off, I’m sure you can believe me when I say that I researched, saved, and indeed tried, a *lot* of restaurants and food destinations in the city. I made it my mission to try as many as possible and even had time to revisit the greats on my final trip. Of course, five weekend trips can barely make a dent in the full list of hotspots that I’d planned, so there are still many places I look forward to visiting upon my return (Bistrot Paul Bert and Le Bon Georges, I’ve got my eye on you).
That said, here are my recommendations should you ever find yourself planning a trip to the capital of gastronomy:
Billili, 9th arrondissement
This is my absolute favourite restaurant in Paris. What’s so special about Billili is that it has an incredibly casual feel that makes it the perfect setting for a lengthy lunch. Billili is the laid-back sister restaurant and neighbour to the famous Les Arlots, a traditional and intimate bistro whose dim lighting and dark wooden furniture evokes old-age Paris. While Les Arlots nods to Paris of the past, Billili is a perfect example of Parisian gastronomy’s evolution. Billili is primarily a wine bar and the bright, unassuming interior couldn’t be more inviting. As you enter the space the bar is directly in front of you, and miraculously the food is prepared on the other side of this tiny counter in plain view of customers. A chalkboard menu is brought to your table, featuring only ten or so dishes. The classics of French cuisine are all there, but so are some exciting modern dishes like St Jacques (Scallop) Carpaccio or Octopus & Orange Carpaccio.
As I discovered during my Paris trips, I have an unapologetic love for Oeufs Mayonnaise (egg mayo, who do I think I am), and let me tell you the egg mayo at Billili is elite. The hollowed out hard-boiled eggs are smothered in the divinely creamy, mustardy egg-mayonnaise mixture, but what distinguishes this dish from its competition is the neat circles of potato that sit underneath the eggs, and the topping of crispy bacon shavings, chives and breadcrumbs. The texture contrast works magically and the richness of the main components on the plate is truly irresistible.
Even the bread was the best I’ve tried in Paris, and never failed to arrive warm on our table. They replenish your bread if you munch through it all before even glimpsing the menu, as we did on each visit. If that’s not enough, the Rillons are to die for. My consumption of French fatty food over the last year did nothing to improve my cholesterol, I’m sure, but it was all worth it. The House Tamara is also delightful, as is the Terrine. The Octopus Carpaccio was light and fragrant, almost flowery, crowned by dollops of orange gel. We never once ordered a main course, but we didn’t need to. Paired with one of their many options of wine by the bottle, a trip to Billili can span hours and is time truly well spent.
Jamat, 9th arrondissement
Jamat is a relatively new restaurant that can’t possibly cover more than fifteen customers at any one time. The restaurant comprises a diminutive room with around five tables, high ceilings, a small bar and a hole in the wall looking into the tiny kitchen. The overall atmosphere is warm, familial and unpretentious. The lighting is romantic and the whole joint is run by a couple: one woman attends to the guests front of house and her partner is the chef. That’s it. The menu is quintessentially small but notably adventurous, and we soon found ourselves trying dishes like snails, taken out of their shells and fried right next to us in copious amounts of garlicky, buttery parsley sauce. Other favourites were fried ravioli filled with black sausage and a giant pork and octopus meatball sat in a rich tomato and seafood bisque that covered a bed of potato puree (fancy mash).
I loved this place because it felt totally unique. The quirky flavour combinations crossed a multitude of cuisines and inspirations, and each dish felt like an adventurous and intensely flavoursome home-cooked meal. Another noteworthy highlight was the bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon that was our companion to this lovely, heartwarming evening.
Folderol, 3rd arrondissement
Though it’s not a restaurant, a visit to Folderol is nonetheless a Paris necessity. Nestled in the middle of Le Marais, Paris’ bustling youthful hub (think Soho meets Shoreditch), Folderol is a natural wine and – wait for it – ice cream bar. You couldn’t really ask for a better combination for a post-dinner night cap, if you ask me. The bar is tiny and always totally full. The only way to get inside is to wait for someone else to leave. Braver people than I will risk a trip to Folderol late on a Friday or Saturday night and most likely miss out on entry. I’d recommend a nice mid-week trip to avoid a disappointing night critically lacking in two of life’s greatest pleasures.
Once you’ve been granted entry, there are very few seats available, so it’s more of a stand and perch establishment. This is the sort of place where you can chat, sip and eat for hours. The music is great, the atmosphere is intimate and the ice cream! The ice cream is honestly up there with some of my favourites I’ve tried, definitely in Paris and quite possibly in my Top 10 Ever list. As an ice cream fanatic, this is actually an incredible honour for Folderol so I hope they’re appreciative. The ice cream arrives in impeccably circular scoops and is made in-house every day. The texture is perfectly creamy and the flavours are rich. What more do I say? Just go.
